Food writers review - Evening Express - January 2002

IN the middle of dreich January with nothing to look forward to but February, you need something to lift your spirits. Something like lunch at the Creel Inn.

We couldn't get a booking for their popular restaurant so we headed for the country inn-style lounge bar with its warm, welcoming family-friendly atmosphere.

One of the main attractions of the Creel is the garlic bread. A whole head of garlic is oven-roasted so the soft cloves spread like butter on the pan-fried bread with a crunchy salsa to set the whole thing singing. The mushrooms stuffed with Lochaber cheese then baked with mozzarella and tomatoes are also worth a whirl.

I was disappointed to find crab absent from the specials board...only to discover it had been promoted to the main menu because it was so popular. And justly so. Baked with white wine, olives and capers this is one of the finest and richest seafood dishes you'll find round these parts.

My partner ordered the tuna and was given a daunting plate of two big steaks in a lovely, delicate creamy sauce. That plus the expanse of fresh veggies disappeared in short order .

Meanwhile, our wee boy steadily worked his way through jungle turkey nuggets and chips without a murmur....always a good sign.

A memorable feast, although it'll always be an occasional treat with a price tag of £31.45, including our drinks.

Scott Begbie. QUALITY - 9/10 SERVICE - 9/10 ATMOSPHERE - 9/10 VALUE - 9/10 TOTAL - 36/40