review

Maritime Bliss - Press & Journal - Saturday March 20th 2004| back to top |

Press & Journal Eating Out Saturday March 20th 2004

Perched on a cliff edge overlooking Catterline bay and harbour is a cosy pub and restaurant known for its good food.

It predominantly specialises in locally caught seafood, but there is plenty on the menu to temp those who wish to savour something other than the catch of the day.

It was the combination of its spectacular location and fine food reputation that made it an ideal port of call for myself and my parents, who are not only keen on visiting fish restaurants but are avid bird-watchers.

With the nearby Fowelsheugh RSPB Seabird Colony in Crawton being one of the UK's largest mainland seabird colonies, there was plenty for them to feast their eyes on.

We arrived on a Tuesday at lunch time and were given the choice of dinning in the restaurant or slightly more informal lounge area. Both rooms feature open fires and beamed ceilings, both have a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere and both offer the same menu.

We chose the lounge area, which had paintings and etchings by local artists on the walls, some of which were for sale.

The friendly host offered us a drink as soon as we sat down, and although we all had soft drinks, we couldn't help but be impressed by the selection of real ales and the extensive wine list available. The wide selection of wines had been carefully chosen to complement both the seafood and meat dishes, and the list reflected classic styles from traditional regions such as France, Spain and Italy as well as a good choice of New World wines, reflecting current trends.

And so to the food. As well as the regular menu, there was a specials board which changes daily reflecting depending on what fruits the sea provides and offers a wide range of starters, main dishes and vegetarian options.

The decision was a difficult one, but I finally decided on the tomato and roast pepper soup from the specials board, while my patents both went for The Creel Inn crab soup - a house speciality made from local crabs, all served with a basket of Scottish bread and butter.

The tomato and roast pepper soup was thick and full of well-balanced flavours - a warming choice for a cold, blustery day that it was. The crab soup was described as the best they had tasted, It was rich and creamy and full of succulent, large chunks of crab meat.

For the main course, my father and I chose the Seafood Trio from the main menu. It contained three varieties of fresh fish from the market - on this occasion, the trio comprised of rock turbot, sea bass and salmon - pan-seared and served with a curried mussel cream. My mother chose pan-fried bass with sun dried tomato polenta and a smoked paprika sauce from the specials board.

The food promptly arrived, served with dishes of vegetables, including new potatoes, mashed potato, carrot, courgette and beetroot. Once again there was no complaints, just plenty of praise for what was described by my parents as a fish dish as good as any they had tasted elsewhere - and that includes a lot of fish restaurants, the curried mussel cream sauce was delicious and the dish worthy having for that alone. It was full of flavour without being overpowering and complemented each fish variety perfectly. The pan-fries bass with sun dried tomato polenta and smoked paprika and crab sauce was also described as outstanding, again with plenty of flavours to tantalise the taste buds.

We had just enough room left for dessert - I chose a homemade baileys Bread and Butter Pudding with sultanas, cinnamon, citrus and baileys custard, oven-baked and served with cream, which I can only describe as the best bread and butter I have tasted. My father went for Old Fashioned Rice Pudding which was a traditional homemade rice pudding with saltanas, cream and a hint of cinnamon, served with a fruit compote, and my mother chose the Banana Crème Brulee. Again, both dishes received enthusiastic praise. The meal was finished off with coffee and tablet.

The bill came to £65.75, which is excellent value for money for the top quality food we savoured

On the day we visited, it was fairly quiet, but if you want to sample the food in the evenings or have lunch at the weekend, bookings for the restaurant are advisable.

It is a place that is well worth a visit and one I will be returning to very soon.

Score out of 30/28 :

Quality of food 5
Menu Choice 5
Surroundings 4
Location 5
Service 4
Value for Money 5

Pub of the week - The Creel Inn - Sunday Mail - Sunday, June 22nd 2003 | back to top |

What's the atmosphere Like ?

You won't find a cosier refuge in Scotland. This pub is perched on a clifftop high above the crashing waves of the North Sea. Low ceilings and warm fires create a welcoming interior.

Describe the decor :

Being so close to the sea, there are maritime features indoors and lobster pots sit outside, paintings and etchings by local artists hang on the walls, some of which are for sale. A beautiful antique print of an old sailing ship takes pride of place above the fireplace in the bar. the lounge also serves diners when the restaurant is too busy.

Who drinks here ?

Apart from a few regulars from the village, most of the clientele are here to sample the good food. Folk musicians provide entertainment - mostly during the winter months - and real ale drinkers often pop in to sample the range of cask-conditioned ales on tap. It is busy at lunch-times especially at the weekends, so it's best if you call in advance if you want to guarantee getting a table.

What about the staff ?

The Inn is owned and run by Robert Lindsay, the excellent menu is firmly in the hands of the talented Lorna Hay.

The food's good then ?

You bet. the Inn is renowned for it's catch-of-the-day specialities such as locally caught crab and lobster but the chefs abilities stretch far beyond the boundaries of seafood. Saying that, the Seafood Platter for two could feed an army and boasts lobster, scallops, crab claws, langoustine, mussels, clams and spoots - all for £35. The taste of Scotland menu is also delicious. The pot-roasted wild venison and the duck, pigeon and haggis platter are just £10.95 each and definitely worth a try. Bar snacks include Arbroath Smokie pate for £3.75 and portions of mussels £5.25.

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Creel on crest of a wave - Eating out - Evening Express - Thursday, June 19th 2003 | back to top |

Fork tailed swallows zip past in close formation, gulls and Guillemots gossip in the evening sun before return to their high-rise nests. Bird-spotting was never this decadent !

We are perched at a candle-lit table. The wine has been poured, the food ordered and his-and-hers binoculars have been provided.

The lucky ones get a window seat. Here, while you feed, you can feast your eyes on stunning cliff-top views straight out of Sunset Song. It's a year now since Robert took over the Creel's helm. And I'm glad to report he is on a crest of a wave.

There have been one or two changes for the better - including a few I hinted at the last time. The extensive menu changes with the seasons and the chalkboard now features four starters, four main courses and two vegetarian options.

I started with smoked salmon and lobster terrine with citrus mayo and salad (£5.25). Whoever created this slab of marine delight must have got the recipe straight from Davie Jones' locker. It was simply delicious and would have been enough for a small wedding party.

I followed with Fish kebab (£10.95) - a bumper grilled brochette of tuna, dab, rockfish and turbot. It was cooked in garlic and lemon butter and served on a red pepper sauce topped with sun-dried tomatoes. My wife chose chicken and chorizo (£9.95). This pan-fried breast was laired with Spanish sausage and coated with paprika sauce. Another winning combination. Our main course came with boiled potatoes, herbed mash and enough veggies to start a market garden.

To finish we shared a trio of speciality cheeses (£4.25) while we sank the last of our cheap (£9) but very cheerful Tempranillo. Not only has the house wine come down slightly in price but the whole bill - at under £40 - was actually less than we paid a year ago. Can get no better !

Our verdict Quality - 5/5 Value - 5/5 Atmosphere - 5/5 Service - 5/5

Neil Horne

We believe this is the 1st time any restaurant has achieved a 20/20 verdict.

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Creely Glad to say that inn is still ship-shape | back to top |

Eating out, Evening Express, July 2^nd 2002

OVER the years I must have seem half a dozen Creel owners come and go. There’s always a sense of expectation- as well as trepidation – about what changes they might introduce.

I’m happy to report that everything in this clifftop tavern is ship-shape as ever.

We decided on the restaurant, which not only commands spectacular sea views but provides in-house spyglasses to enjoy them with.

The food formula hasn’t changed much. Seafood is still the main attraction with everything from humble haddock at £8.50 to fresh lobster at £19 a pound.

I went for chalkboard choices starting with a piping pyramid of local mussels (£5.25) paddling in an excellent cider and cream broth. I followed this with a brace of lightly grilled seabass in a delicate crab sauce (£12.50) topped with sun-dried tomato.

My wife’s starter was tipsy mushrooms (£3.75). They came pan-fried on a bread base with crispy bacon smothered in red wine mustard and cream sauce. Her trio of marinated lamb cutlets (£8.65) would have been crowned top of the chops, but for an over-salty onion gravy.

One of the best things about The Creel is that accompaniments are not charged as extra. Our main courses came with (wait for it) new and mashed potatoes, broccoli, butter beans, carrots, sweatcorn, and red cabbage !

This left little room for a shared portion of cheese and biscuits (£4.25).

With a cheery hubbub getting up and the new owners patrolling the tables to top up drinks, it had a real dinner party atmosphere.

As The Creel continues to grow in stature it would be nice to see linen napkins, pepper mills and perhaps little table lights.

Our bill including wine at £9.95, came to a reasonable £44. I’m really glad to see this seaside haven is in safe hands once again.

Neil Horne

Quality - 9, Value - 9, Atmosphere - 9, Service - 9.

Total 36/40

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Inn changes hands but nothing changes - Evening Express - 19th Feb 2002 | back to top |

One of the North-east's best loved seafood restaurants is set to change hands.

The picture postcard Creel Inn at Catterline, near Stonehaven, is on the brink of being sold.

But the prospective new owners today vowed to carry on the unique traditions which have made the cliff top tavern such a success.

"We have agreed a deal to sell the hotel," said owner/chef Robert Cleaver. "It should be signed, sealed and delivered within days." He added "The couple who are taking over are from Stonehaven and are keen to keep things exactly the way they have been."

This will include the Creel's special system for ordering the freshest possible seafood. Every morning Robert looks down to the tiny harbour and sends a hand signal to the boat below. "I stand on the beer garden table and wave down my order to the fisherman," he said. "If I want crab I do a sideways movement and hold up my hand to show them how many I want.

"Mine-host Robert and Wife Jackie, will continue running the Creel until June 18 - and then stay in the kitchen for a further two months to oversee the transition.

The new owners are relishing the prospect of taking over, but want to keep their identity under wraps for now. The new anonymous owner said: "It is pretty much a done deal - but I haven't told all my family and friends yet.

The Inn was built in 1837 and is perched four miles south of Stonehaven, on the clifftop, the Catterline landmark voted one of Scotland's top eateries.

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Food writers review - Evening Express - January 2002 | back to top |

IN the middle of dreich January with nothing to look forward to but February, you need something to lift your spirits. Something like lunch at the Creel Inn.

We couldn't get a booking for their popular restaurant so we headed for the country inn-style lounge bar with its warm, welcoming family-friendly atmosphere.

One of the main attractions of the Creel is the garlic bread. A whole head of garlic is oven-roasted so the soft cloves spread like butter on the pan-fried bread with a crunchy salsa to set the whole thing singing. The mushrooms stuffed with Lochaber cheese then baked with mozzarella and tomatoes are also worth a whirl.

I was disappointed to find crab absent from the specials board...only to discover it had been promoted to the main menu because it was so popular. And justly so. Baked with white wine, olives and capers this is one of the finest and richest seafood dishes you'll find round these parts.

My partner ordered the tuna and was given a daunting plate of two big steaks in a lovely, delicate creamy sauce. That plus the expanse of fresh veggies disappeared in short order .

Meanwhile, our wee boy steadily worked his way through jungle turkey nuggets and chips without a murmur....always a good sign.

A memorable feast, although it'll always be an occasional treat with a price tag of £31.45, including our drinks.

Scott Begbie. QUALITY - 9/10 SERVICE - 9/10 ATMOSPHERE - 9/10 VALUE - 9/10 TOTAL - 36/40

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Secret of Survival at Catterline – By Cuthbert Graham | back to top |

Weekend review – The Press and Journal – Saturday August 22^nd 1970

WHAT decides whether a community shall live or die? Just a few miles north of Catterline is the haven of Crawton, once a more populous place and a larger fishing centre, but now so derelict and deserted that it no longer finds a niche in the Registrar General's List of populated places. On that list at the last census Catterline was credited with 125 inhabitants and it may well have more today.

The fate of the olden fishertowns of Scotland, sacrificed to the demon of progress, the economic pressure of modern technology and centralisation, is one of the great tragedies of our country.

All up and down the east coast of Scotland are once vivid and thriving fishertowns that are now either dormitory suburbs of large towns or quaint holiday spots for weekend cottages, but which have no other reason for existence.

Catterline might well have been one of them - a mere place of recreation and escape. For this it has every desirable qualification and indeed it does attract at the weekends the water-skiers and skin-divers, the canoeists and the sailing dinghy sportsmen.

But it is more than a delightful playground for jaded citizens of the industrial age, it is still a place where serious work is done. It has achieved a remarkable balance in which the traditional fishing pursuits go on side by side with the high craftsmanship of painters and playwrights, all working together as a single intimate village community.

The greatest fear these residents of Catterline have is that their ideal working environment may become vulgarised by rash, out-of-character architectural innovations, such as are all too frequent in other coastal beauty spots although this fear has been somewhat allayed by the protection already assured by wise planning provisions.

Nature and native adaptability have conspired to save the character of Catterline. Sheer physical factors, the contours of the clifftop for example, have kept the more drastic intrusions of tourism at bay. There is just no suitable spot within the village where a caravan site could be laid out.

The fishing has been kept alive partly because of the proximity of Gourdon, that unique Scottish line-fishing port where the Catterline white fishers can land and sell their catches, and partly because of the profitable salmon netting station.

The Salmon harvest

Here day by day, the Sabbath excepted, through the seasons lasting from February 16^th to September 9^th- Skipper Lewis Adam and his crew sail out in their coble to make the round of their eleven nets, bringing and boxing the big gleamish fish for the firm of James Johnston and Sons.

One of the features of Catterline coast is the steepness of it’s gradient, both above and below high water mark. Patrick Stewart noted this 175 years ago when he remarked on the Old Statistical Account “The sounding of all the coast at 100yds or less from the shore are from eight to 13 or 14 fathoms.” This makes the disposition of salmon nets a tricky and skilled business, and the engined coble was one answer.

On the foreshore itelf the nets have to be disposed unusually steeply on the limited ground available - tricky for the fishers but a delight to Catterline's colony of artists, who have recorded the picturesque spectacle on scores of paintings.

Salmon line fishing is a life long profession. Sixty year old Skipper Adam, whose deeply tanned and characterful visage, is a favourite subject with the Catterline artists, began his salmon career in 1928 as a “cuddy boy” at Ethie Haven, carrying the catch from that station to waiting lorries at Lunan Bay, and came to work at Catterline in 1932.

“It’s hard work” he says, “but not quite as hard as it used to be.” Lighter equipment and coroline nets have taken a little of the physical strain of the manpower. This season salmon catches at Catterline have not been exceptional, but the top haul a week or two ago was 100 salmon and grilse in one day.

At present Catterline has only one all-the-year-round white fishing crew, although there are three boats in the little harbour. Until the boom years of last century two boats was the normal complement of the creek.

3000 years ago

How far back does the story of Catterline go? The immensely picturesque clifftop ridge fronting a bay with fretted rocks on steep grassy slopes glorious with wild flowers must always have been attractive to human settlers. In February of this year a Bronze Age short stone cist, dating back to 1500 or 2000 B.C., was unearthed in the garden of William Adams at Brigstane Cottage.

It contained the skeleton of a little boy of five to seven years old, a boy with a gap toothed grin and the brachycephalous skull of the Beaker Folk, that remarkable strain of invaders from the Continent who were to settle in the North-east in such numbers as to become the predominant racial type; right down to the present day. His fragmented skull was "rebuilt" at Aberdeen University and from it a portrait was made which linked the Catterline of today with the Catterline 3000 years ago.

All that remains of the medieval Church of Catterline is its aumbry or sacrament house, built into the wall of the kirkyard and surmounted by a stone on which is a rudely incised cross and sword. Inside the kirkyard the oldest tombstone is that of Metellan Livingstone and Robert Douglas, the mother in-law and father-in-law of Sir George Ogilvy of Barras, the Governor of Dunnottar Castle and Guardian of the, Regalia.

Curiously enough there is another fascinating link with the Ogilvy family in the oldest part of the house of Braeside at Bridgend, Catterline, now the home of Mr Ian S. Munro, who is senior lecturer in primary education at Aberdeen College of Education. This very old portion with enormously thick walls and tiny windows, which became the wash house of a row of three cottages, dates from at least 1659 and was, it is believed, part of Margaret Ogilvy's dower house.

The three linked-up cottages which now form Braeside, had an interesting history in much more recent times. One of them was occupied by the late Joan Eardley when she was bringing fame to Catterline through her painting; another was occupied by her artist colleague Angus Neil. Ultimately all three in their united form became the home of James Morrison, another distinguished painter of the modern Glasgow School.

When Mr and Mrs Morrison moved to Montrose they were succeeded at Braeside by their friends Mr and Mrs Ian Munro and their son Robin. Here Mr Munro completed the biography of Lewis Grassic Gibbon on which he had been working for years and continued to write the radio plays for which he is well known. The latest of these "Bound to Go," a 60-minute drama with a Firth of Clyde setting, and a retired sailor as the principal character, will be broadcast by the BBC on December 11.

To see, as one does in Braeside, the works of the Catterline artists hanging side by side is a revelation. They glow with a sombre yet fiery beauty. This, of course, was the angle of vision that Joan Eardley so powerfully opened up; wintry suns, snow and stormy seas, the oblique lights of the short days. She is gone but she has a potent successor in Lil Neilson who confesses that what inspires her about Catterline above all is “its winter wildness."

Miss Neilson, a native of Fife, and a graduate of the Dundee School of Art, first came to Catterline in 1962 and worked side by side with Joan Eardley when she was at the height of her powers. She now has a cottage-studio in South Cottages, the southern wing of the village which rises up steeply on the high ridge of the cliff on that side of Catterline Bay.

She has painted the village in all lights but most notably at dusk or under sombre skies when the white line of the houses rides like a glowworm on a dark heaving wave of the grassy clifftop. James Morrison, on the other hand, was particularly interested in the patterns made by steeply draped salmon nets, the contours of the fishing craft, the long linear magic of the furrows on the good land which Lewis Grassic Gibbon immortalised in “Sunset Song."

Mrs Annette Stephen, in her colourful retreat at the Old Watch House, produced strong and vivid watercolours often with a maritime theme. She has done some works as a result of a recent visit to Shetland where, just as in Catterline itself, man lives very close to the sea - as at Lodberries of Lerwick, where the old houses dip their feet in the water.

But the secret of Catterline as a milieu for the artist seems to consist in this that nature in all her moods is ever present and familiar. The sense of alienation imposed on man by an artificial urban environment is a thousand miles away.

Saga of a village

It was a January that the Court of Teinds united the parishes of Catterline and Kinneff.

But it should be remembered that no village of Catterline existed at that time, nor for fully 100 years after. In 1793 the Rev. Patrick Stewart recorded the fact the “there is neither town nor village, not six families dwelling together - the seatowns of Gaphill and Catterline excepted - in all the parish.”

This may seem a rather Irish way of putting it, but a seatown for two boats, as Catterline was then, did not imply anything so extensive as a village. The village in fact was Patrick’s own idea.

Mr Stewart’s dream did come true. Viscount Arburthnott built the pier and then the village followed. As the nineteenth century progressed it filled up rapidly, though the tradesmen and manufacturers were never numerous. By the end of the century every cottage contained a fisherman and his family. There were about 20 small white fishing craft.

Mr Robert Taylor can remember when every house in the place was full to over-lowing, and the difficulty was that the young people unable to find a home for themeselves had to go elsewhere.

After the first World War decline set in as it did in every fishing haven in the country.

But today a new point of equilibrium has been reached. The only question is will there be a young generation to take over when the present one retires?

I found one answer to this in the visitors' book at the historic old Kirk of Kinneff, where the large round hand of a whole set of youthful signatories was followed by Catterline village addresses. Surely some of these will carry on the torch.

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