Creel on crest of a wave - Eating out - Evening Express - Thursday, June 19th 2003 

Fork tailed swallows zip past in close formation, gulls and Guillemots gossip in the evening sun before return to their high-rise nests. Bird-spotting was never this decadent !

We are perched at a candle-lit table. The wine has been poured, the food ordered and his-and-hers binoculars have been provided.

The lucky ones get a window seat. Here, while you feed, you can feast your eyes on stunning cliff-top views straight out of Sunset Song. It's a year now since Robert took over the Creel's helm. And I'm glad to report he is on a crest of a wave.

There have been one or two changes for the better - including a few I hinted at the last time. The extensive menu changes with the seasons and the chalkboard now features four starters, four main courses and two vegetarian options.

I started with smoked salmon and lobster terrine with citrus mayo and salad (£5.25). Whoever created this slab of marine delight must have got the recipe straight from Davie Jones' locker. It was simply delicious and would have been enough for a small wedding party.

I followed with Fish kebab (£10.95) - a bumper grilled brochette of tuna, dab, rockfish and turbot. It was cooked in garlic and lemon butter and served on a red pepper sauce topped with sun-dried tomatoes. My wife chose chicken and chorizo (£9.95). This pan-fried breast was laired with Spanish sausage and coated with paprika sauce. Another winning combination. Our main course came with boiled potatoes, herbed mash and enough veggies to start a market garden.

To finish we shared a trio of speciality cheeses (£4.25) while we sank the last of our cheap (£9) but very cheerful Tempranillo. Not only has the house wine come down slightly in price but the whole bill - at under £40 - was actually less than we paid a year ago. Can get no better !

Our verdict Quality - 5/5 Value - 5/5 Atmosphere - 5/5 Service - 5/5

Neil Horne

We believe this is the 1st time any restaurant has achieved a 20/20 verdict.